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Durres is Albania’s main city on the Adriatic, 34 km from Tirana, and one of its oldest: the Greeks founded it in 627 BC. I spent part of my solo Balkan road trip here in July 2021, working remotely from my apartment and spending the rest of the time on the beach and in the old town. It’s not a big tourist name, which is exactly why it felt more real. If you’re in Tirana, don’t skip it.
Quick answer:
- Best things to do: the quieter beach spots north of town, the Roman amphitheatre, the Venetian Tower, sunset on the promenade.
- How long: split your time evenly with Tirana, a couple of days each.
- Good for remote work? Yes. I worked from my apartment and the wifi was fine.
- July: hot, but fine.
Things to do in Durres
1. The beaches north of town
The best beaches in Albania are down south, but I found a few really nice spots just north of Durres. They’re away from the crowds, so you’ll need a car (I drove) or a taxi:
- Kallmi i Bucur: my favourite. A colourful restaurant right on the beach with sunbeds and umbrellas, and the food was really good. You can easily spend the whole day here.
- Beach Bar Soleil: right next door, with a relaxed vibe and a volleyball net. Sunbeds are limited, so arrive early.
- FisherMan: amazing seafood. Even if you don’t use their beach, come for dinner around sunset for the view over the Adriatic.
If you’d rather stay in town, there are plenty of city beaches too, just busier.
2. The Roman amphitheatre
Built in the 2nd century AD, it’s the largest amphitheatre in the Balkans. It was buried for centuries and houses were built on top of it, so today apartment blocks still press right up against the ruins. It’s in the centre, a 5-minute walk from the Venetian Tower. I paid about €3 ($3.40) to go in back in 2021; it’s free to walk round as of 2026.
3. The Venetian Tower
A round 15th-century tower from the Venetian city walls, on the edge of the old town by the seafront. I only saw it from outside, on the walk between the amphitheatre and the promenade.
4. Sunset on the promenade
A long walk along the promenade is the best way to end the day. My favourite sunset spot is the Sfinksi, where you can sit on the stairs and watch the colours. The promenade is lined with bars and restaurants, so it’s also where Durres goes out at night. Try the Negroni at Posh Lounge.
Working remotely from Durres
I worked from my apartment at Colombia Apartments and the wifi was fine. Work in the day, beach or promenade in the evening: Durres is an easy place to take your job to the sea.
If you have more time in Durres
I didn’t get to these, but they’re on most Durres lists:
- Archaeological Museum: Illyrian, Greek and Roman finds, labelled in English. 300 lek (€3.30 / $3.70), open 9:00 to 15:00.
- Byzantine Forum: columns you can see from outside the fence.
- King Zog’s villa: run-down inside, but good views over Durres. About 200 lek (€2.20 / $2.45).
- Currila and Vollga beaches: quieter beaches just north of the port.
How long to stay in Durres
Split your time evenly between Durres and Tirana, a couple of days each. Read my Tirana guide for the capital.
Getting to Durres
From Tirana: I drove it as part of my road trip; it’s about 34 km. Without a car, buses and minibuses leave Tirana’s bus station often and cost about 150 lek (€1.65 / $1.85).
From Tirana airport: there’s no direct bus. A taxi takes 30–40 minutes and costs about €30–35 ($34–39). Agree the price first, as taxis don’t use meters.
Best time to visit Durres
I went in July: hot, but fine. Late July and early August are the busiest. September is warm with fewer people and still good for swimming.
What things cost in Durres
| What | € | $ |
|---|---|---|
| Bus from Tirana (about 150 lek) | €1.65 | $1.85 |
| Archaeological Museum (300 lek) | €3.30 | $3.70 |
| Taxi from Tirana airport | €30–35 | $34–39 |
| Amphitheatre, promenade, Sfinksi sunset | Free | Free |
Prices from 2026 sources, converted in November 2026 (€1 ≈ 91 lek, €1 ≈ $1.12).
Where to stay in Durres
Durres FAQ
Is Durres worth visiting? Yes. It mixes Roman ruins, a long promenade and quieter beaches north of town, and it’s less touristy than the south.
Tirana or Durres? Both. I’d split your time evenly, a couple of days each.
Can you work remotely from Durres? Yes. I worked from my apartment and the wifi was fine.
How do you get from Tirana to Durres? By car it’s about 34 km. Buses and minibuses leave Tirana’s bus station often and cost about 150 lek (€1.65 / $1.85).
