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In February and March 2023 I travelled around India on my own for two months, working remotely for part of it. I started in the north (Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan, which I’ve covered in my North India 2-week itinerary) and then went down the south-west: Mumbai, Goa, Hampi, Bengaluru and Kerala (Kochi and Alleppey).
This post is that second half: the route, how I got between each stop, what it cost, and what it was like to do it as a woman on my own. The best part? I kept my job going from a beach in Goa.
Before you go
Visa: most nationalities need an e-Tourist Visa. A 30-day visa costs around $25 (or $10 for arrivals between April and June), and there are 1-year and 5-year options too. Apply only on the official site, indianvisaonline.gov.in. Plenty of look-alike agency sites charge much more.
When to go: I went in February and March, and it’s a good time: the south-west coast is dry and sunny between roughly November and March, before the heat and then the monsoon arrive.
Phone: get an eSIM before you land. A local SIM needs your passport, visa and an existing Indian number, which is a hassle.
Getting around: I used trains, buses and a couple of domestic flights. My guide to getting around India explains how to book trains and buses, read your ticket and avoid rickshaw drama.
My India south west coast itinerary at a glance
I don’t remember the exact days, but roughly: about six days in Goa to work and chill, and less in each of the other stops.
| Stop | Time | How I got there |
|---|---|---|
| Mumbai | a few days | flight from Rajasthan |
| Goa (Agonda) | about 6 days | flight from Mumbai |
| Hampi | a few days | train from Goa |
| Bengaluru | a few days | train back to Goa, then a flight |
| Kochi | a few days | flight from Bengaluru |
| Alleppey | a few days | bus from Kochi |
Flights in India are cheap and save whole days, so I flew the long legs and took trains and buses for the short ones.
Mumbai
Mumbai is where the north and south halves of my trip met. The classics: the Gateway of India, a ferry to the Elephanta Caves (rock-cut temples and a UNESCO site), and Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the gothic railway station. I’ve written about them in my North India itinerary.
My honest take: Mumbai is massive and the air is very polluted, but it’s good to visit, especially for the island temples at Elephanta.
Goa: working remotely from Agonda beach
This is the leave-hacking part of the trip. Instead of using annual leave for Goa, I spent about six days in Agonda, a quiet beach in South Goa, and worked from there. It was good and chill: work during the day, beach and sunset after. I stayed in a guesthouse and the Wi-Fi was good, which is all you really need.
Good to know if you want to work from Goa:
- South Goa (Agonda, Palolem) is calmer than the party beaches in the north, so it’s better for a work routine.
- Mind the time difference. India is 4.5 hours ahead of Central European winter time, so a European workday ends around 10:30 pm in Goa. Plan your beach time for the mornings.
- Check the Wi-Fi before you book. Ask your guesthouse for a speed test screenshot. Mine was good, but it varies a lot from place to place.
- There’s no Uber or Ola in Goa. Use the GoaMiles app instead, and pay in cash.
Hampi
From Goa I took the train inland to Hampi, my favourite stop on the whole south-west route. Hampi is the ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire’s capital, scattered across a landscape of giant boulders and temples. The Virupaksha Temple is the one you’ll see in every photo.
Goa to Hampi:
- Sleeper bus: overnight buses leave Goa in the evening and take about 7 to 8 hours, from around INR 600 to 800 (€6–8 / $6–9). They run often from October to mid-April.
- Train (what I did): a morning train from Vasco da Gama reaches Hosapete, the nearest station to Hampi, in the early afternoon. It only runs four days a week, so book ahead. From Hosapete it’s a rickshaw ride to Hampi.
You can compare buses and trains on 12Go, the site I used to book in India.
It’s quiet, the nature is amazing and the temples are incredible. Don’t rush it.
Bengaluru
From Hampi I took the train back to Goa and flew to Bengaluru, India’s big tech city. It was a short stop for me on the way south to Kerala.
One thing that happened to me here: a driver stopped for two minutes so I could photograph a building he’d offered to show me, then asked for more money. If a driver offers a detour, say you’re in a hurry.
Kochi (Fort Kochi)
Next stop, Kerala. Fort Kochi is the old harbour area, known for its Chinese fishing nets, colonial streets and cafés.
Honestly, there isn’t much to do, but it’s nice to wander around for the Portuguese architecture. One or two days is plenty.
Alleppey backwaters
The backwaters around Alleppey (Alappuzha) are one of the highlights of Kerala: palm-lined canals, rice fields and houseboats. You can splurge on a private houseboat overnight, share a day cruise, or take the cheap public ferry that locals use.
I did a shikara boat ride, in one of the narrow covered canoes that can get into the smaller canals the big houseboats can’t reach. It was really cool: quiet, with beautiful nature all around.
You can book shikara rides locally, or compare backwater shikara rides and houseboats in advance.
What my south west India trip cost
I don’t remember my day-to-day costs, so here’s what I can give you exact numbers for. Prices at about €1 = 106 rupees and €1 = $1.12 (October 2026).
| What | INR | € | $ |
|---|---|---|---|
| e-Tourist Visa, 30 days | about €22 | $25 | |
| Goa to Hampi sleeper bus | 600–800 | €6–8 | $6–9 |
Is India’s south-west coast safe for solo female travellers?
I never had any major issues in India and never felt unsafe, and the south felt easier than the north as a solo woman. The north felt more authentic, but it was harder: more hassle, more attention. If you’re nervous about India, starting in the south is a gentler introduction. That said, India has its challenges. You will get a lot of attention from men, especially with lighter hair. Rickshaw and taxi drivers will try their luck with prices and detours. And people will ask for selfies (usually harmless; just say no if you don’t want to).
My main rules: agree the price before getting into any rickshaw, stay somewhere with a 24-hour reception, never say you’re travelling alone, and dress modestly. I’ve put everything I learned in my solo female travel guide to India.
If you ever need help, call 112. The women’s helpline is 1091.
Where to stay
I mostly stayed in places with a 24-hour reception, which made a big difference as a woman travelling alone, and in Agonda I stayed in a guesthouse with good Wi-Fi. You can find options along the whole route on Booking.com.
FAQ
How long do you need for India’s south-west coast? Roughly two to three weeks from Mumbai to Kerala, which is about what it took me, with a longer stop in Goa if you want to work or relax.
What’s the best time to visit Goa and Kerala? Roughly November to March, when it’s dry. I went in February and March.
Can you work remotely from Goa? Yes. I did it from Agonda beach. South Goa is calmer and better for a routine than the north.
How do you get from Goa to Hampi? An overnight sleeper bus (7–8 hours) or the morning train to Hosapete.
Is South India safe for solo female travellers? I never felt unsafe, and the south felt easier than the north. Still, expect attention, negotiate every ride and use common sense.
More Asia: my Death Railway day trip from Bangkok.
